Florence – Gastronomy

The Florentines seem to have always preferred wine to coffee, therefore the city cannot claim a café tradition on a par with Paris or Rome - there are more bars here, where you can relax, as a rule, more nicely than in cafes. Florence's culinary reputation has suffered in recent years under pressure from mass tourism and many locals complain, that there is probably not a single authentic Tuscan restaurant in the city. It is undoubtedly not easy to find a good place, if you are traveling on a modest budget, but you can eat a fair meal, if you come in more distant neighborhoods. The university and the constant influx of language learners and other young visitors keep the nightlife thriving, while annual events such as the Maggio Musicale perpetuate Florence's status as a center of Tuscan culture.

Cafes, bars, confectioneries and ice cream parlors

At the beginning of the century, societies and intellectual life were concentrated in the cafes of Piazza Repubblica, and today these places are visited, although there is no old atmosphere in them. The tables outside of the elegant Caffe in Piazza Pitti are a good place, to observe Florentine life, but for this pleasure you have to pay a lot. Cafeellat-te, via degli Alfani 39 / r, located in a former dairy, it is good for breakfasts and lunches - and people who hate caffeine will be pleased with the large selection of teas.

On the main tourist streets, such as via de'Panzani, via Santa Maria, Via de ’Cerretani or via Guicciardini are full of bars, in which the food - sandwiches, pizza, fruit salads - more than compensate for the lack of character of the premises themselves. More interesting places can only be found with some effort: not the worst bars around the university, around Piazza San Marco, i w Oltrarno, wokół Santo Spirito Square i Piazza de’Nerli. (Details see under "Snacks", below).

There is no shortage of premises after dark, which you can look at. I refract, via San Niccoló 55 / r, located near a section of the city walls, attracts a young clientele and shares the building with the little latteria (dairy), family run business, where ice cream is made on the spot. Sweet life, na Piazza del Carmine (22.00-1.00; nd. closed), it's a trendy bar, where small-scale art exhibitions are often held; nearby Tiratoio, in Piazza de’Nerli, is a great place with a relaxed mood, with two video jukeboxes and a wide selection of dishes. W ViIdeo Diva, via San Zanobi 114, it's always full of students and good cocktails served (every evening 21.30-1.30). For a quiet drink in a beautifully situated, a simple and original bar, stop by Fontana on viale Michelangelo (pn. closed) - quite expensive, but it's worth it.


Although some bars serve warm breakfasts, the locals rather start their day at cafe-pasticceria with coffee and cake. The best of the pastry shops are the Zatti, Borgo Albizi 19, Rusts, via de’Neri 76 i Cennini, Borgo San Jacopo 51. The chicest cafe is Rivoire, przy Piazza Signoria 5r; the place is popular with both tourists, and the Florentines, but remember, that only croissants can sit at the table.


From the premises, where they serve ice cream, Vivoli is leading, near Santa Croce, przy via Isola delle Stinche 7 / r (closed. pn. and all VIII). He is following on his heels by far the best of the downtown ice cream parlors, Why not!, via Tables 19 (wt. closed). Across the river you can go to Ricchi Alfredo, n Piazza San Spirito.


One of the most important places in Florentine parishes is vinaio, partly a wine bar, partly a snack bar, partly a common room. A typical customer comes by for a chat, a glass of wine at the bar and a few crostini - little slices of bread, sometimes fried, with chicken liver paste or something similar. Vinaio in via Cimatori 38 (pomiędzy Republic Square i Piazza della Signoria) is a perfect example of this type of premises; it is just as nice on via Alfani 70, in the university district, where, in addition to traditional crostini, stuffed tomatoes and other vegetables are served. W Piccolo Vinaio, via Castellani 25 (z tyłu Old Palace) the only place for tables is on the sidewalk outside, so the bar is closed in bad weather; it's worth trying panzanella there, something like a salad made from stale bread, onions and parsley. For more classic snacks, you can enjoy paninis and spaghetti at Fiaschetteria, via de’Neri 17, or similar dishes in Fiaschetteria da 11 Latin, via del Palchetti 6 / r, for Palazzo Rucellai.

Another Florentine specialty is friggitoria, where polenta is served (mumble), potatoes and apple croquettes; most of these places are closed on Sundays. Friggitoria in via Sant'Antonio 50 (pn.-sb. 7.30-19.30) also sells slice pizza, and the premises at Volta di San Piętro 5 (8.00-21.00) he serves burgers, sausages and salads; then you can drink wine at AWAntico Noe, across the street.

If you don't want to hang out at the diner, you can join rosticceria (delicatessen), where you can buy first courses and grilled meat dishes. Usually in rosticcerie it is sold to take away, but there are seating at Mario, an excellent rosticceria-trattoria in via de'Neri 74, and in Da Moreno, in via Val di Lamona (at the back of the Porcellinó market).

Lovers of Florentine tripe and lamprey sandwiches melt over the advantages of the stand, which are set up in the evenings at the Porcellino market. The best panini tartufati (truffle rolls) sells in expensive and unpleasant Procaccia, via Tomabuoni 64.

Restaurants and pizzerias

Tuscan cuisine is distinguished by the simplicity of culinary techniques and the modesty of ingredients - typical ingredients are tripe and veal legs, and the typical method of making better meats is grilling. Not sophisticated, good Tuscan cuisine is not cheap in Florence — most restaurants, which is appreciated by the locals, has prices from 70000 L upwards. There are, however, many decent inexpensive establishments, which give at least an approximate idea of ​​the dishes typical of the region, and even in the most ordinary trattoria, bistecca alla Fiorentina should be included in the menu, huge beefsteak fried with salt and pepper. Unless otherwise stated, a full meal in the places listed below should not cost more than 20 000 L.


Golden Balls, via Sant’Antonio 43. Something between rosticceria and trattoria; in addition to full meals, they also make take-out sandwiches.

From Mario, via Rosina 2. Popular with students and staff at the market — be ready to line up and share the table with others. Nd. closed.

ZA-Za, Market Square 26. Several tables on the ground floor, but the larger canteen is downstairs - their specialty is fetlunta eon phagioli (olive oil and white beans on bread), but requires a strong stomach.

Pizza Nuti, Borgo San Lorenzo 39r. Claims the title to be the oldest trattoria in the city, modern and tidy place. The menu is not limited to pizza, and all dishes are relatively cheap. The best of a number of large pizzeria restaurants on this street. Wed. closed.

Universtity canteen (student canteen), via San Galio 25a. Not for foodies, but a two course meal plus fruit and drinks too 6500 L will feed the hungry people cheaply. Open for holders of student cards (pn.-sb. 12.00-14.15 i 18.45-20.45; closed. half. VI-half. IX).

New China, Santa Maria Novełla Square 9. Nice, relatively cheap chinese restaurant with quick service, very popular with Florentines.


All Mossaece, via del Proconsolo 55. Once upon a time, young Florentine artists used to come here, who paid with pictures from time to time; the bohemian aura had already dissipated, but the dishes are still delicious. (Sb. i nd. closed).

Osteria, via Matteo Palmieri 37r. Sets from 12000 L, tables outside in the square. Wt. closed.

Bar Santa Croce, Borgo Santa Croce 31. Good flxe menu at lunchtime, excellent spaghetti dishes. (Pn.-sb. 12.00-15.00).

Welcome, via de’Neri 47. From the street, it looks more like a deli than a trattoria, but groups of people waiting for a table dispel the illusion; the gnocchi and arista are delicious. Wed. closed.

Half pepper, via di Mezzo 26 (near Sant'Ambrogio. Student clientele; excellent salads and spaghetti at unbeatable prices.


Dante, Nazario Sauro square 10. Busy pizzeria, which also has about a dozen types of spaghetti on the menu. Wed. closed.

Pizzeria i Tarocchi, via de’Renai 12. Food like in Dante, an equally popular place. Wed. closed.

Trattoria i Raddi, via Ardiglione 47. One of the newer premises in the area, recommended for its peposa - veal baked with pepper, but without salt.

Cantinone del Galio Nero, via Santo Spirito 6. Offers appetizers, main courses and crostini specials; the main title to fame is a magazine full of the best Tuscan wines — table wine is sold only by bottles, from 7500 L.

Homemade Trattoria, via Michelozzi 9r. Probably the best of cheap original Tuscan dishes in the city, therefore there is always a crowd; ich boiled eon the onions (chopped beef with onion) is incredible. Nd. closed.

The Tavern, via Michelozzi 15. It is worth having a regional main course and a glass of good wine. Nd. closed.

Trattoria Nello, Borgo Tegolaio 21. It offers fixed and half-sets at lunchtime, which attracts crowds of customers here; in the evening you can get an excellent a la carte meal below 20000 L. Nd. closed.

Of The Four Lions, via Vellutini 1. Fast, any and very cheap; for appetizers try the finocchion, Tuscan salami. Nd. closed.

Angiolino, via Santo Spirito 36. The open kitchen allows you to watch the preparation of Tuscan specialties; a full meal with wine will be approx 25 000 L.

Trattoria Oreste, Santo Spirito square. Good fixed menu, delicious salsiccia e fagioli - Tuscan style sausage with peas - and tables in the square. Nd. closed.

Trattoria le Sorelle, via San Niccoló 30. He specializes in salami and penne; high quality meal for approx 25000 L, salads and spaghetti much cheaper.

Ruggero, via Senese 89r. Excellent pappa al pomodoro and braciola della casa make up for a bit of the cool service.

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